Fresh water, salt water

Today seemed like it was going to be another rest day, what with Mario and I still nursing our respective injuries, but thankfully we got out and got moving, and had a fantastic afternoon of communing with water. Mario had been reading up on natural hot springs nearby, since we are at the base of a volcano, after all. They are a rather well-kept secret in southern Basse-Terre, as once the hot springs become main stream, they tend to get a sort of "facelift", often time involving a cement pool or basin, and losing their natural charm. Mario had found the Bains de Dolé, home of the bottled spring water we've been drinking, Capes Dolé, but also location of a series of hot spring pools that still have a certain natural side to them. 

First adventure, trying to access the parking lot through a narrow laneway that is really only wide enough for the car to get through, and that's it. But with Mario's awesome driving skillz, we make it in no problem. Many other tourists don't even attempt the entry, preferring to park off the side of the twisty-turny roadway instead. Then it's small hike down a rocky path to a lovely-looking tiled heart-shape pool...and disappointment. This is not what we were looking for. However, we read that there is a path through the jungle, away from the basin, that leads to more natural sources, and luckily, we are the adventurous type.

We find the access easily enough, muck our way along the short path, and as we follow the sound of waterfalls, we discover the "hidden" baths of Dolé. Here, people have tamed the falls, creating natural basins by piling rocks to close off the flow of the water. Higher up, the pools are a little more warm, coming from the source of the hot springs, but cooling as the water falls from each level to the next. Of course, each pool is accented by a waterfall, and ringed by the lush green jungle foliage. Giant elephant ears overhang on side, vines creep down on the other. It's all amazing and beautiful, and we count ourselves lucky to have found this location, and found it not too crowded, either. A few others have made the trek through the jungle, but some don't stay long, opting for the "cleanliness" of the tiled pool instead. It's too bad, because this place is amazing. 

We luxuriate a long time, trying out all the pools, climbing up and down the hill between them in flip-flops, or barefoot, tracking mud as we go. Next to the springs stand the large example of a figuier that we've ever seen - Mario said it was an entire cathedral of a tree. It was massive.

Eventually we managed to pull ourselves away from the pools, and head out to Grand Anse beach to splash in the waves a bit. The water is calmer than previous days, and the waves less rough, too. We head in to float, and watch as a single grey cloud begins to rain on the neighbouring houses. As it gets closer to the beach, people begin to pack up their towels and head to their cars. Strange, coming out to the beach and not wanting to get wet! Eventually, we are all but alone, bobbing on the waves, watching as a magnificent rainbow forms under the singular cloud, touching down one side in the ocean, the other on the sand. The rain falls on us. It's such a fantastic moment, and I can't help but laugh. 

A day full of water, a day full of beautiful moments.