A Gorge, seen in two ways

Wow, was it ever chilly overnight. Makes us realize how unequipped this campervan really is for longer trips - with a bedding kit that includes a small duvet but large duvet cover, fitted sheet and then two very flat pillows. Also makes me realize how lucky we were to be able to properly equip ourselves when travelling with the same rental company when we road tripped across the Southern United States! Still very early, and still very cold, we pull on more layers, have a glass of juice and drive the van to the Couloir Samson parking lot. This is a trick we learned last year, and now call it the "Bryce Canyon technique" - get up early and just ready enough to function, then drive to the trailhead/parking lot. Here, we "reserve" a spot close to the hiking trail, and can then take as much time as we want to pack our things, get ready, have breakfast and make our sandwiches. There are only 5 other cars here when we arrive, and bonus? There are no parking fees to pay! We park comfortably and prepare for the day.

We start our trek onto the trail that leads into the Gorges du Verdon just around 9 am, when we've determined most French tourists are just starting to make their way out to the hiking trails - after their breakfast, and maybe a second coffee. As we hike into the gorge, I am mindful of the fact that, for every step I take down, I am going to be taking again back out, at the end of the hike, and while being a lot more tired than I am now. I have to be aware of my level of energy, just like I was when we hiked into the Grand Canyon. Curiously, this place is often referred to as the Grand Canyon on France, so my goal is to plod my way into, and then back out, just the same way the mule trains plod their way back up and out of the Grand Canyon. It worked last time!

First, we head down crumbly limestone paths, onto soft pine needle-carpeted stretches of pathway in the shade. The sunrise is long and drawn out, since the sun has to crest the tall edges of the gorge around us, and so the air is still cool and comfortable. We cross the paved round-a-bout at the end of the roadway, and just before the stairway to the river's edge, a small group ahead of us points out a Chamois (a sort of agile goat-antelope) on the opposing bank. 

We follow the stairs down to the rushing water of the river, teal blue and milky from the minerals it contains. This is the Verdon river, which weaves its way through the gorge, and its roughness makes it a great place for white water rafting and canyoning, because why wouldn't you want to throw yourself down a river in a small inflatable boat or wetsuit?! Here, we scramble over large rocks to the water's edge, which is surprisingly warm. I wouldn't want to swim here, though - there are plenty of signs warning of the danger of a sudden rise in the level of the river. This is part of a hydroelectric project, and the reservoirs could be opened at any time and without warning. It's especially dangerous in the summer months, as hikers, hot from the physical exertion, ignore these warnings and go in the water anyways.

Speaking of physical exertion, we are following what is called the Blanc-Martel trail, a famous 16 km hike that follows the river, except it's a one-way trip. Normally, you catch a shuttle from the village to the starting point at the Chalet de la Maline, descend into the gorge and follow the Verdon, then climb back out at Pointe Sublime, just past the Couloir Samson parking. Here, you catch the shuttle back into town. It's a grueling hike, and the shuttle schedule means that your are restricted to doing it in a certain amount of time, which is maybe not enough for me. Honestly, I'm not sure I was feeling up to the challenge, especially with the climb out at the end... We ultimately decided to do a shortened version of the hike, leaving from the less steep descent, and on the end that includes TUNNELS!

Some abandoned hydro-electric project dug several tunnels through the sides of the gorge at the turn of the 1900s, and so part of the trail leads through them, rather than up and over steep cliffs. And these are not little tunnels - the longest of the two we pass through runs for 650 m through the rock, has ventilation holes carved in halfway down, and you have to cross with the help of some light source, it gets so dark in there! How cool is that??

After the tunnels, the trail continues to hug the river, passing through low tree cover, and not offering much in the way of new views, nor challenge, and so Mario deems this to be the best point to turn around, as we will not gain anymore from the hike except distance and overexertion. So back we go, past the tunnels, past the big rocks, up the stairs. The ascent is good, and less strenuous than I think either of us anticipated, so we continue a little further, to Pointe Sublime at the very end of the Blanc-Martel trail. We sit on a rock below the viewing platform, looking out at the climb we just completed, while eating our sandwiches in the sunshine.

View from Pointe Sublime

Trail markers

Back at the van, we repack everything, batten down the hatches and prepare to drive the Route des Crêtes, up and over a large peak that overhangs the gorge. The road winds along the very edge of the cliff, letting us look all the way down the cliff, right to the bottom. There are plenty of pull-off points and belvederes along the 17 km-long route, and so many opportunities to stop and gaze at the views. We also see many other cars parked in the pull-offs and parking lots, people nearby with their picnic lunches spread out on blankets and low tables. What a fantastic place to come for a meal in nature!

About one-third of the loop is one-way, and with good reason: the road narrows significantly, there are a couple of arches to pass through, wicked switchbacks in the road to navigate slowly, and the only thing delineating the edge of the road from the cliff beyond is a low wall of cement blocks...It's very safe, but exciting nonetheless, because really, we all know those blocks are doing nothing to keep the cars from flying off the cliff...

Views from the Route des Crêtes

Spotting a vulture flying above the gorge

We make it back to the village of la Palud-sur-Verdon, where we finally answer the question of how no cars have managed to get stuck trying to pass each other on the narrow road through the center of the town. Traffic lights control the flow, and so our campervan passes through with no problems. We check in at the municipal campsite - again - and take advantage of wonderful hot water showers to relax after a busy day. A short walk back to the village for a celebratory scoop of rum-raisin ice cream, and then we finish the evening in the warmth of the campervan, as the temperatures cool and the wind picks up. We heat up the van by making pasta - borage linguini from Ventimiglia with a tomato-pesto sauce - then lounge in the back, wrapped in blankets and snacking on chocolate. A perfect way to end a wonderful day.