White Sands

Even though we got a good start on the driving by making it to Albuquerque last night, we still have a ways to go. Rather than wasting time with a hearty Cracker Barrel breakfast which would eat up precious time, we instead make a quick bowl of oatmeal, brew some coffee, and then get on the road nice and early. Our goal is to make it to White Sands National Park with enough time left to be able to enjoy it, so away we go!

This time, we are heading through a lot more desert environments. During our travelling, we pass through the area known for being the test grounds of the Trinity Nuclear Bomb. Mario makes an interesting observation regarding this - unwittingly, we have now been to both the testing site and the site where it was used, Hiroshima in Japan. This remark gave me pause.

Antelope Squirrel!

After cresting another mountain pass, I noticed a large swath of black below us. Mario said it was likely the vegetation. As we got closer, I saw that no, it was not vegetation, but a large black lava field, very similar in geology to the ones we saw in Iceland. Even on this 2-lane highway passing through seemingly the middle of nowhere, we found a picnic area pull-off. We stopped the campervan and made some sandwiches. Mario climbed all over the volcanic rocks, overgrown with spiky Yucca plants and large-lobed cacti, while I watched some Antelope Squirrels scurry up and down the valley walls, chirping at each other. And the surrounding views were spectacular.

World's largest pistachio

Driving in the United States has been quite the divertissement. There is no shortage of billboards to entertain us while we are heading from point A to point B, and often they encourage unplanned stops along the way, which we have been fully embracing. There were the Burma Shave signs along Route 66 in Arizona which lead to nothing more than some research on the internet about a defunct shaving company. There was the over-abundace of Geronimo signs in New Mexico, advertising what seemed to be the biggest outlet mall sort of thing selling every native inspired craft, gift or clothing under the sun, plus cold drinks and clean restrooms. Turns out the place was as big as a shed, just blew their budget on the billboards! And to thinink we almost stopped, too. Heading to Alamogordo, the billboards that caught our attention were the ones for Pistachioland. Yes, you read that right, with tours, wine tasting, and the world's biggest pistachio all available for our viewing pleasure! Needless to say, but just the draw of pistachios, grown in New Mexico, was enough for us to stop. We toured the tasting bar, chose our favorite flavours from the wide assortment, and even found something to hang in our Christmas tree for next year! But it was a short stop, and after a few quick photos with the giant nut, we continues on to White Sands. 

Did you know that White Sands in located in the Tularosa Basin, and that most of the area is used for the White Sands Missile Range? Did you know that twice a week, the park can be closed for 1-2 hours because of testing going on?! Crazy stuff, that. Thankfully, this was not case on the afternoon we pulled into the park. Did you know that White Sands is also a gypsum desert, which is why it is so white in colour, and that gypsum is the stuff used to make Gyproc panels used in the construction of most buildings back home. It is like chalk. So where the desert sands have been ground fine from erosion, and the footfalls of so many visitors, the stuff is like a chalk dust that sticks to everything. Coats the interior of the van nicely, too. 

Since most of the morning was taken up be driving, we arrive to the park mid-afternoon, but the sun is still high in the sky, and there are many little trails to explore, winding their way up the dunes or around dry lake beds, since it is still winter here too. We also get wind of a Ranger-led Sunset Stroll in the desert, and can only imagine what the colours must look like on a completely white desert canvas. So we explore, we climb, but we leave ourselves plenty of time to drive the sandy roads to the meet-up point for the sunset. 

Our Ranger, Brian, uses Back to the Future analogies to tell us about the history of the area, the animals that once roamed here, how the sand came to be only in this place between the Sacramento and San Andres Mountains. He is our "Doc Brown", so of course, you know that Mario is going to call the guy "Doc Brian" for the rest of the tour. Leave it to the two Quebecers to crack all the sarcastic jokes under their breath while the Ranger is trying to explain millions of years of history to the group! 

The sunset in the desert is nothing short of spectacular. The colours are deep and vibrant, and different depending on which direction you are looking. Once the sun dissappears behind the San Andres mountains, the sky goes through a show of all of the shades of oranges and reds before changing to cooler purples and blues. Behind us, that same colour is being reflected on the tall, pointy, snowcapped Sacramento mountains, set against a deep blue sky. The plant life is tinged pink, and in the sky, and almost-full moon glows brightly. It is truly magical. 

Yucca Plants at dusk

We exit the park just before closing, watching as some people get a last moment or two to slide their way down the dunes on plastic saucers. Seems to be the thing to do here, just like in the snow back home. I speak from experience when I say it is not: sand does not slide as well as snow does, so you don't go as far, and sands hurts more and gives less when you have to eject from your sliding vehicle!

We head back to Alamogordo and in the opposite direction, heading up into the Sacramento Mountains and Lincoln National Forest. Here, Mario has found a nice, easy spot to get into from the main road, with a short drive into the bush, and flat spots to park. Even school bus campers(schoolies) have over-nighted here with no problems. And the views of the valley below promise to be spectacular tomorrow morning.