Friday, January 13, 2023

Hello, New Orleans!

And we are moving on again, though it seems so funny to say that, when these are some of the shortest travel days we have had during the entire road trip! Only about an hour of road lays between us and our destination of New Orleans, but when I was planning the rough timeline for this adventure, I left an entire day for this transit, so be it - off we go!

First we depart our cozy parking site next to Oak Alley Plantation before opening - wouldn't want to overstay our welcome and ruin another free camping like some people do, so we clean out at the same time as the Belgians. It was quiet enough, but SOOO windy - I though the campervan was going to blow away! And the cold weather has returned - for the beautiful, sunny warm day we had yesterday, it dipped below zero overnight. I even had to put on my legging and chunky socks again! When did we get back to Santa Fe?!

We stop for a quick restocking trip at Walmart, having checked our foodstuffs, and figured out what we'll need for the next week or so of meals. The last week or so of meals, really. As Mario puts it, we are beginning the final countdown now. I just shush him in response.

We arrive in New Orleans fast, so it's too early to check in at the campground. Instead, we head to City Park, New Orleans answer to New York City's Central Park. Here, we are able to waste  a couple of hours exploring a short hiking loop next to a lake, do some bird-watching, ponder an abandoned field with concentric asphalt circles in it. We spot a group of volunteers collecting firewood/cleaning up the path of falling branches, laughing and talking and having a grand old time as they walk. We come across a small lending library which reveal not only books, but a large bag of expired ramen noodle packages. We take two. We make a coffee in the campervan while stopped at the park, just because we can. Then we head to the campground.

We check in and realize it's only 2, and there is still so much day to take advantage of, and that's not going to happen in the campground. Turns out, we can catch a bus into the French Quarter right outside the campground, so Mario figures out how to purchase incredibly cheap 3-day passes online, and then we are out and on the bus and headed into New Orleans!

Obviously, the first thing I want to do is head to Cafe du Monde for beignets and café au lait, because that's the main food thing every self-respecting foodie has to do in NOLA. It's crowded, but we spot a table freeing up and run to claim it. I ask another couple scouting out seats if they want to join us, as it is a table for 4, and they agree. Together, we indulge in the pillowy, crisp squares of fried dough, absolutely drowning in powdered sugar. They are light and crunchy, or dense and cakey, depending on the bite, but sweet and delicious and suddenly there is a coating of powdered sugar on the table, on my fingers, on my pants, and definitely all over the floor. It's a messy, delightful experience that I highly suggest to everyone, but make sure to check your table manners at the door - you won't need them here. Also, even if you don't have to go, take a moment to wait in the line for the toilets. It is right in front of the kitchen, and if you want to see a well-oiled machine at work, you want to see how the wait staff at Café du Monde fill their table orders in under 30 seconds. It was amazing. I was wholly impressed with the efficiency of the process.

Once the sun goes down and the wind picks up, it starts to get really cold, so we take a walk down Bourbon street on our way back to the street car on Canal. It is an assault on ALL the senses: Loud music blares from every doorway, be it bar or shop or whatever, and from some vehicles, too. And it is all different, and not all enjoyable. Every second store is a frozen daiquiri vendor, offering up to 20 different flavours in any number of souvenir drinking vessels. There are hot dog stands on the corner that LOOK like hotdogs. We pause to take a picture, and suddenly there are dozens of shrieking girls, drinks in hand, attempting to be the focal point of every shot. Clearly they don't realize that I find the architecture more interesting. And below our feet, the ground is strewn with discarded drink cups, broken strings of beads, and puddles of unknown liquid laced with glitter.

And with that, we came back to the quiet of the campground. Clearly you have to be in the right frame of mind to truly "appreciate" the cacophonie of stimulation that is Bourbon street, and we weren't quite there tonight.

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