So we are taking our chances this morning by heading out to Buckingham Palace to attend the Changing of the Guard ceremony, for two reasons: One, there may not be a ceremony due to all the activity in the lead-up to the Queen's cortege procession this afternoon, and two, there might be, but the area will already be so crowded, we may not even want to venture close! We
do luck out with our timing, however, as St. James Park Underground station is announcing its imminent closure for the day just as we are exiting out the gates and onto the street. Lucky!
I hold a map in hand of the comings and goings of the different regiments and guards, and we follow the path up and down Bird Cage Walk road, searching in front of the Wellington Barracks for any sign of activity. Or perhaps, the right kind of activity, as there is no lack of that today! We dip into the park itself, grabbing a welcome coffee on our way, and try again. Finally, I ask one of the barrack guards through the massive metal gate regarding the days proceedings. Turns out, the city guard has taken control of the duties in this very unprecedented time, and not wanting to cause any more confusion, the palace guard has stepped back, for the time being. Things should return to a semblance of normal after the Queen's state funeral next Monday, but until that time, there will be no Changing of the Guard ceremony. Oh well.
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Since we already here, we continue to wander around the area, heading through the park to the sidewalk opposite Buckingham Palace, and then to the start of the Mall, that great wide boulevard that leads to the palace, already lined with rows and rows of people camping out to secure their spots for the procession. They are pressed against the security barriers, some draped in flags, or carrying bouquets of flowers. We spot a few dressed to the nines in their black funeral attire, hair styled with eccentric fascinators or capped with silk top hats. It's nothing less than I would expect from the British at a time like this, wanting to show the utmost respect and devoting to their late Queen.
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We wandering the area extensively, up and down both sides of the Mall, mistakenly exiting the security area a couple of times while walking past Clarence House, but managing to make our way back in. In an attempt to control crowds, there are only only a few access points, which I am sure will get shut at some point in time closer to the procession, and once you leave, you won't be allowed to return. This presents us with a very important choice : having not prepared for this turn of events, and it being still quite early, do we attempt to find that elusive viewing spot, settle in for 3+ hours, and wait with the rest of the well-wishers, only to get crushed together against the barriers in the final moments, with hope that we catch a glimpse of the coffin go by? Ultimately, I find the prospect too overwhelming, and ask that we escape the crowds, leave the British people to their mourning, and seek refuge on the other side of the Thames. Perhaps I will come to regret the decision. But in that moment, it all felt like a little too much, I wasn't prepared for it, and my attachment to the Monarchy doesn't seem enough to warrant taking up the space that perhaps belonged to someone more deserving. I'll leave it there.
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We cross the Golden Jubilee bridge, a multi-peaked suspension bridge, to the other side of the river, to catch views of Westminster and the London Eye, and walk right into the long, snaking queue of hundreds of people beginning their wait to enter Westminster Hall and file past the Queen's coffin, paying their respects for the last time. Note that the coffin hasn't left Buckingham Palace yet; it is 11 am, and the doors will only open to the public at 5 pm. We silently wish them all patience and hop on the Tube to Borough Market instead.

Borough Market, tucked under some rather noisy train bridges, is a great place for foodies, a great place for lunch, and a great place to change your state of mind, which is something I needed. With so many different stalls offering up infinite tasting possibilities, it was just a question on decided what we felt like eating, and keeping it as simple as possible - I think I could've tasted it all, to be honest! At a fruit stall, Mario spotted the biggest, roundest figs I've ever seen, so I picked out two that were so ripe, they were practically turning to jam in my hand. I chose a velvety purple peach that turned out to be the same colour inside and out. Upon passing a cheese monger, Mario got drawn in by Alsop & Walker, a cheese producer from East Sussex that produces cheeses using pasteurized cow's milk, so we tasted some and chose a generous chunk of their Woodside Red. Finally, we spied a beautiful round loaf of Pain au Lait at a baker's stall in the center of the marker, crusted with sugar crystals, and rounded out our lunch with it. Finding a free spot on crowded bench in a sunny corner of the market, we spread everything out on a shopping bag and began to tear up pieces of the goodies to snack on. Everything was delicious - the fruits at their peak ripeness, the cheese pungent but creamy - but I think the breakout winner of the picnic was the pain au lait, its soft, pillowy crumb delicately sweet and pairing perfectly with everything else. If I return here, I would without a doubt buy another loaf of that delicious bread.
Insert here an intermission where we head back across the City to Aldgate East, to the accommodation, where we crash for a few hours before the Theatre tonight. The BBC is broadcasting the procession to Westminster Abbey, so we watch the goings on from a much better vantage point.
This evening, we head back out into London, over to Victoria Station in the West End, to the Apollo Victoria Theatre and this evening's performance of the Broadway hit "Wicked". It was never a question in my mind, when coming to London, that we would not try to find a time to go see a show, but this one presented a great possibility for inexpensive tickets rather close to the stage, and at the last minute, too, so how could I say no? Plus, I seem to have gotten Mario hooked on plays and musicals enough now that he looks forward to them, too! We stop for a quick snack at the Pret a Manger take-away, which we eat on the steps of a nearby monument, so we won't be hungry during the show!
I don't know if you are familiar with the premise of the show "Wicked". It is the genesis story of the friendship between Glinda the Good and the Wicked Witch of the West, from "The Wizard of Oz", all the way up to the events that occur at the end of the movie, and culminating with the melting of the witch. You can imagine the Emerald City plays a relatively important part in the play, so there is heavy emphasis on the colour green everywhere: in the theatre, in the seat upholstery, in the stage settings, in the costumes - you can even buy pairs of emerald-coloured glasses to join in the fun.
The show itself is very entertaining - it has great music, wonderful dancing and acting, and the costumes! So spectacular, so detailed. The whole show has a slight steam-punk vibe to it, which I loved. What I didn't appreciate so much was the rock-n-roll feel to the whole show, like being at a concert. Sure, it was fun and exciting, but as a result, the music blared through the speakers, tuning out the singing a bit too much, which caused me to miss some of the lyrics and story. I feel I missed a few important parts - I'll have to listen to it again sometime to really appreciate the full show.
After we filed out of the theatre and back onto the street in the night air, we realized our proximity to Buckingham Palace, and decided to take a walk. Everything was still all gated up and secure, guards standing in twos and threes on every street corner. We crossed back and forth across the wide expanse of the Mall, catching glimpses of the palace behind us in the distance, the boulevard lined with so many UK flags. I stopped to take a few pictures, standing next to gentleman with a tripod doing the same. Needless to say, my pictures were probably a little more blurry. And we just just walked, enjoying the city. Once upon a time, this idea, walking out in a foreign city at night, would've scared me - now I look for the opportunity to see the place in a different light. I guess it all depends on the place and the circumstances.
And we finished the night snuggled up in bed, watching some more of the cortege procession on the BBC and snacking on tea and toast. How British.