Boutique flight to Northern Thailand

Last morning in our luxurious "presidential suite" at the Golden Butterfly Villa, and another wonderful wake-up courtesy of the primary school's principal speaking obnoxiously over the loud-speaker system. It's rather funny because we don't understand what she is saying, but her inflection makes it seem as if she is asking the students questions, then laughing and badgering them on.  Our bags are packed, and we are downstairs having breakfast when our tuk-tuk driver shows up to whisk us away to the cute little boutique airport that is Siem Reap International. Not much time to wait, though security is brisk and we are stamped out of Cambodia in no time, and then we are on the plane and up in the air.

We fly Bangkok Airways, a boutique carrier that offers all the luxuries of old, for very reasonable prices, so for our hop to Bangkok, which takes an hour, we can bring one piece of checked luggage for free. Though I don't even have time to finishing reading the in-flight magazine provided, the cabin crew have time to do a full breakfast service, WITH hot beverages, AND clean up the dishes(with REAL utensils!) before we begin our descent to the airport. And the best part? We have access to a LOUNGE!!! Sure, it may be full of people, the seats aren't super comfy and the snacks provided are basic, but it's INCLUDED in the price of the ticket. What a change from most budget carriers available these days(I'm looking at YOU, Air Canada.)

Another wonderfully-short hop and we are in Chiang Rai, in Northern Thailand, where a brand new shuttle bus drops us straight downtown, next to the bus station, and a few minutes' walk from our guesthouse. And what a place! I think this garden, this compound(for lack of a better descriptor) is one of the last strongholds of an older more chill Chiang Rai. Not to say that Chiang Rai isn't chill - but as we walk down a dirt laneway behind large buildings, hidden behind a parking lot is a green oasis of tranquility. Little of the outside city noisescape gets in, and the birds the hop from tree to tree, chirping their happy tunes, make this an ideal spot to just relax. I love it. The rooms may be a little dated, giving off a feel of old highway motel mixed with stark white hospital room, but they are airy, clean, and cheap, and why wouldn't you want to spend all your time sitting in the garden anyway?

Not wanting to waste what little time we have in Chiang Rai, we head out to check on a possible one-day trekking tour. Unfortunately, the company has no guide available(!), so we drop that idea, but find ourselves face to face with the 16th annual Chiang Rai winter flower festival! A large garden is filled, and I mean FILLED with so many orchids and lilies and chrysanthemums, and just the fragrance of all those blooms in the warm evening air is completely intoxicating. Just next door, a market is set up in conjunction with the festival, where there are artisan stalls and fruits and clothing and food, and the place is filled with locals sharing tables and meals and snacks. We just have to join in the fun. What I love about it is the feeling of the whole event - this is an annual festival held for the people of Chiang Rai, NOT the tourists, so everything is set up for them. There are no tacky souvenirs, not inflated prices, not pizza nor banana pancakes in sight, just tasty food, beautiful crafts and fragrant flowers. It's a lovely evening.

Walking back to our little garden oasis, we pass through the night bazaar, the nightly market/food court that sets up in the center of town, and though is isn't completely touristy, it certain caters more to that clientele. However, we make our way into a open eatery of sorts, lined with hot pot stalls and filled with local families cooking their dinner in clay pots over charcoal. Our plans for tomorrow are looking much more relaxed now without the trek, so we vow to come back tomorrow to experience this other side of Chiang Rai.

One last stop before head back - Mario notices a cat cafe near our hotel, and basically drags me in for a cup of icy Thai tea. Secretly I think that he is really missing his cats that he "hates" so much back at home, but he insists that it is for me. We sit at a low table, watching the rather indifferent fur beasts wander about, rather nonchalant to anyone NOT holding out treats, but then I remember a spare shoelace I still have in my pocket...Suddenly, there are blurs of fur jumping and pouncing, bounding after the bright pink lace and after each other. Fellow patrons are laughing at the sight. It's not a fluffy cat purring in my lap as I stroke its back, but it's close.