Slow walk, fast walk

Turns out, no matter how much I want to take it easy and relax on this vacation, we always end up taking another hike! Doesn't hurt that today's hike ended up in a place that encouraged relaxation, but still! Mario's got me hiking! Today's trek took us to the north side of the island, down on the lower side of the "galette" and closer to the beaches. But first, baguette!

We drive down the twisty, turny roads that descend at a 10 degree gradient, and miss the turn-off twice before pulling up in front of a small church that signals the starting point of our walk. This one is just a baby - difficulty easy, length of 1 hour - but the hot sun and rocky decent can affect that. We walk behind a farm where, for the first time this trip, I get a close look at how some of the local vegetables are farmed. There are rows of tomatoes, vines heavy with cucumbers and melons. There are hollyhock-like plants, with bright yellow flowers and elongated, pointy seed pods - which I figure out are actually okra! I've never seen how they grow. Curious little things.
We weave our way through low, spiny shrubs, some sporting green-and-black beans, pick our way over rocky calcium debris, until we break through a clearing...and are presented with the most beautiful secluded beach ever. Opposite us is a cave in the cliff, where the waves crash inwards with a resounding boom. The water is strong and forceful, but is broken by a coral reef just off-shore. We sit next to the rocks, and the echo of the waves surrounds us while we eat lunch and enjoy the quiet moment. Funny enough, though we are seemingly in the middle of nowhere, there is an elderly French couple here, lying in the sand, toasting their skin to a nice, leathery brown. I wonder how they got here.

Back at the car, which is registering a sweltering 34.4 degrees, we decide our next move should be to make our way to one of the sublime beaches on this end of the island, known for their gorgeous turquoise waters. We head towards Saint-Louis, where we know there are some nice spots from our last trip here. Sure enough, we cruise into Anse du Vieux-Fort, which offers shelters and picnic tables, though some are missing their benches. Across the water, a cheeky little deserted island taunts us, its two palm trees blowing in the wind. We cozy up in the sand and chill for the afternoon, making our exit when too many people fill up the space around us.






After our Ti'Punch, we head back into town - tonight, all of the islands' carnaval groups are assembling in Grand-Bourg in a sort of combination kick-off of the carnaval season. Horns will blow, drums will pound, feet will march in unison to the chants of the crowd - but not before church lets out, as we discover. Sitting on a bench, enjoying a sorbet coco from a nearby vendor, we watch as the players mill around the square, a young boy tentatively cracking his whip, drummers tapping quietly on the pulled canvas of their instruments. There is a strained energy in the air, ready to explode as soon as the word is given. Soon enough, the group assembles down a darkened street, facing the marina, flag-bearer in front, and to the crack of the whip, OFF THEY GO! People gather outside their homes, patrons exit the restaurants, in an attempt to see the menagerie parade by. A riot of sound and colour - their pants splattered with paint in homage to their local sponsor - quickly marches its way through town in a grid-like pattern. And when I say quick, I mean these guys are working up a sweat! One of the distinguishing factors of the Guadeloupe Carnaval groups is their speed of movement. Unlike the Carnival in Rio, where presentation and dance is the key, in Guadeloupe, it seems to be about the ground covered! These guys move! After cutting through some of the streets trying to catch glimpse here and there, we gave up and just followed along behind the parade, matching our walking to the beat of the drums, joining the numerous people who were were doing the same. It was loud, fast and fun, and when we finally dropped out to pick up our evening's chicken dinner, we, too, were sweaty and out of breath.