Sagrada Familia

Today was a day to appreciate the combination of architecture and nature that is the design of Antoni Gaudi - today, we toured the Sagrada Familia. About 70% of the way to its completion, due in 2026, it is a veritable testing ground for new construction and architectural techniques, and a gorgeous piece of art at the same time. And it is dripping in symbolism, both of the religious and secular kind. It is a work of pure beauty, and we spent all morning pouring over every angle, ever detail we could lay our eyes on.

First the approach: we had made our way past the Sagrada Familia yesterday, on our way to La Salsamenta, examining the exterior, scrutinizing the facades, but there is something to be said for a good audiotour, as it draws your attention to the details you might miss. Though sometimes you just have to take your time and look, too. We entered throught the Nativity facade, admiring the dove-filled cyprus tree, the dripping details above the archways, the towers that looked light and airy, reminding us of wasp nests. We pointed out mosaic tilework, remarking on the toppers of the rooftops, piles of regional fruits, chalices of wine and host wafers. A brisk wind, apparently unusual for this time of year, pushed us inside.

Next, the towers: each facade is made of 4 bell towers, and climbing them not only affords great panoramas of the city, but also a close-up of the work in progress, and an inside look of the construction of such a masterpiece. A cramped elavator whisked us up to the top, where we weaved our way back and forth between towers, looking inside, looking up, looking out. We admired the worked on their perches, installing stones and examining finishes. We revelled at the foresight Gaudi had in planning all of these passageways through the towers and beyond. We squeezed through corridors made only big enough for one, often times pushing past other people going backwards, though we found ourselves doing the same, having missing a detail here, or a view there. We wanted to lose ourselves in those spiraling stairwells. Reluctantly, we wound our way back into the rainbow-coloured interior.

Then, the inside: It was both like entering Saint-Peter's Basilica, and a centennary forest, at the same time. Columns built with the same branch-like structures as trees soared above, while the sunlight filtered back down to the ground. Around us, stained-glass windows glowed like rainbows, projecting their colours onto the white walls. More ceramic details hid in high corners, above rows of balconies and spirals of stairs. My back started to hurt from looking up so much, trying to take it all in. My suggestion for others wanting to visit? Like Saint-Peter's or the Sistene Chapel, you should bring a mirror to enjoy it to its fullest.


Finally, the inspiration: Below the church, the hallways of the cloister, we marveled at the plaster models and inspirations Gaudi used in the construction of his opus. In fact, it is these items that allow the constuction to continue today, and remain true to his vision. Juxtapositions of shells and seed flight patterns and stairwells showed how he used nature to inspire his design. We could clearly see how the cluster of leaves on a vine, or knots on a tree, or the growth of crystals played a huge part in La Sagrada Familia. Here we also saw the crypt, and the final resting place of Antoni Gaudi, the great architect, a hero to Barcelona.








Anyone can see how all of this wonder can easily be enough for one day, but no! Not for Mario and I, as we continued on from our visit, taking the metro to the Barri Gotic, Barcelona's Old Medieval neighborhood, to lose ourselves in its narrow laneways and quaint squares, but not before a stop at the Mercat de la Boqueria for lunch. Here, we pulled up to the counter of a seafood grill and tucked in to the most delicious plate of mixed seafood, piled high with tender shimp and fat, juicy mussels. Mario also got the most amazing tortilla de patatas that I've ever tasted - hopefully we can recreate the same taste at home! We toured a few more stalls in the market, picking up some snacks and treats here and there for our train ride south tomorrow.

After lunch, we continued to wander, heading first to the waterfront, then back into the Gothic neighborhood - making little discoveries here and there. We happened upon both a knife shop, to add to Mario's collection, and also a patch shop, so I can sew another couple of flags onto my pack. Finally, we got the chance to taste Cacaolat - a staple here in Spain - a chocolate milk that is served both hot and cold, and was created in Barcelona at the Granja Viader cafe. We sipped our glases of the warm, sweet drink while snacking on real churros. Yum.

Finally, we boarded the metro back to our neighbohood and our hostel, and wandered a bit in the shopping streets and laneways closer to our home base. We picked up a bottle of wine, some bread and cheese, and picnicked in our room while packing our bags for tomorrow. Tomorrow, we head south to Sevilla, then drive to Malaga for the begining of our tour of Andalucia. Here's to new adventures!