Experiences in Sevilla

A day of 3 very distinct experiences.

First, Metropol Parasol: Constructed as part of a great revitalization project in the old center of Sevilla, and received with as much applause as criticism, "the mushrooms" clomped onto the scene in a fairly recent 2011. It was a way to incorporate a central park, permanent market and visual interest into the same small space. The architect charged with the final project designed tree-like structures, large in stature but light in design, growing out of the roof of the market space, built over a sub-terranean museum housing Roman ruins discovered during construction. Above, a catwalk in the branches offers great views of the city and surrounding bridges, while a restaurant and event halls are available for reservation. But it really does look like a big patch of fungus, and close up views from the aerial catwalk show the shoddy work on the laminated wood making up the lattice structure, used to give a lightness to the forms. Mario found the workmanship cheap, and mentioned how it looked old, like something build in the 1950s, not the 2010s. I was inclined to agree.

Second, El Torcal: Needing to get out of the city, we returned to El Torcal for lunch and a walk. Here, erosion has formed the breathtaking structures topping the mountains in this area, a result of layers upon layers of sand and limestone. The visual results resemble anything from stacks of coins to piles of donuts, stone archways and lumpy columns, ribs or cairns or Western Canadian Hoodoos...It is an amusement park for someone who likes to climb, even though his ankle is preventing too much activity. Restricted by daylight hours and previous engagements, we were limited to the short hike, one wonderful hour of prancing around the rock formations, just like the mountain goats that we spotted at one point. The climb in the car up to the site and back down into the valley was just as spectacular, and challenging, especially when you throw in a herd of mountain sheep grazing nearby and leisurely crossing the road...Mario put on his rally car driver hat, and off we went!

Third, Flamenco: Since we had such a wonderful time with Sara at our Paella-making experience through Airbnb, we opted to book another one, this time covering Flamenco, with a dash of tapas and wine thrown in, just for good measure! We met up with Maria, a well-known Flamenco dancer at a little bar in the Flamenco neighborhood of Triana, where she brought us drinks and snacks, and explained to us the origins and history of the art form. Then she hurried off, suitcase in hand, to change for the show. Maria explained to us that she is trying to bring back the traditional way to enjoy Flamenco - in an intimate setting, among friends, and completely improvised. It used to be reserved for family events and gatherings, where people would gather and play music, clap their hands, stomp their feet, dance and sing. As a result of tourists wanting to partake, companies began offering shows, and dinners - which is not necessarily a bad thing. Maria explained how the big, organized Flamenco events are very good, and very professional, but not very intimate, which is what she is aiming for. In the back of this little bar, there are 30 or so chairs crowded into a dark room, around a stage, and she warned us that if she gets really excited during her first dance, she might hit a few people with her shawl, when she spins around and around in time with the guitar.

In contrast with the show in Granada, and the angry/serious face of the dancer there, Maria seemed to bounce between concentration, contentment and pure exhilaration while she performed. The singer was passionate and angry and resentful while singing about broken hearts and barren homes - which we fully understood regardless of the language barrier. The guitarist, quiet and reserved, strummed his guitar with such speed, skill and finesse, I often couldn't see his fingers individually - they became a blur travelling across the cords. And after they finished, and our small group applauded with much gusto and appreciation, Maria rejoins us, stepping out of her role as performer and into her role as dinner company.

Maria took us out the back entrance to the bar, and down the street to a local tavern, well-known to the local Flamenco community and known to the local performers, as well. The walls were covered with photos and signatures of well-known dancers and singers and guitarists, and Maria pointed out several important ones, which elude me right now. We all sat down at a quiet table at the back, and Maria relished in the fact that we were not picky and she could order anything she wanted from the tapas menu. She picked out several local specialties, including crispy goat cheese cigars in rosemary honey, and fried chunks of pickled codfish, and we talked of the show and Flamenco in general, of weather her and at home, and of the food, of course. It was such a wonderful and memorable night and felt so personal that I would suggest anyone coming to Barcelona join in to one of these wonderful events.