Sunny days

A day communing with the sun - that's what I'll call today. That's certainly how my skin feels! We drove along the coast, lined with long, thin, sandy beaches, heading towards Pointes aux Châteaux. The point is known for a breath-taking line of rocks eroded by the pounding of the very violent ocean, and happens to be the eastern-most point of the big island of Guadeloupe. There is also a climb up to a great panorama, with a cross on top, though we don't know why - someone just thought that would be a good place for a pilgrimage, I guess!

We stopped first at the main vista, the one everyone goes to to see the power of the crashing waves, trying to capture the biggest, strongest one in the background of their photos, before beginning the walk up the point. The path was well-marked, sandy and climbed slowly until it reached a stairway that led straight to the cross. This part was a little more difficult for me than it should've been, given that my knees were still recovering from previously-mentioned treks, and I had something amiss with my left ankle. Not to be deterred by a little pain, as we were in Guadeloupe, after all, I just worked my way more slowly up the stairs to the top. The view extended all the way to La Désirade, but was not as awe-inspiring as it could've been. We were looking across the tops of the rocks, all in a line, and it gave the impression that we were looking down our nose at the ocean beyond. Nice, but it could be better. We followed the trail over the crest of the hill, to the volcanic outcropping just beyond, being pummeled by the waves. This allowed us to move past the rocks, and look back on them from the side. Much better! Here, we could see all the towered points, the rough surf below, and La Désirade, with the added bonus of a spectacular composition. This is stuff of brochures, people.

We continued walking, following the trail further along the volcanic outcropping, reminiscent us of the limestone caves of the Yucatan in Mexico. As the waves crashed along the coast, the water would fill up tidal pools that would drain either into bigger pools, or underground. The water was crystal clear, and warm, so we stopped to dunk our feet into one of them, while appreciating the power of the waves crashing below. Further along, we happened upon a beach, littered with big hunks of water-blasted coral, tiny little hermit crabs running around beneath them, and giant conch shells, battered by the surf. Sure, these shells weren't all polished up and sparkly like the ones in the shops, or sold on the side of the road, but we have found them, and they were FREE. Even better - and HEAVY! I hope my luggage gets loaded on the plane with these in it!

We returned to the trail head as grey clouds began threatening rain, so we stopped at a very ramshackled lunch shop, with hand-painted and illustrated menus, and a very colourful covered dining area, and the most delicious-looking food possible for what was essentially a food truck! Mario ordered a chicken platter, with salad and rice and vegetables, while I chose a basket of codfish fritters - accras - accompanied with loads of that yummy sauce chien. The chicken was smokey, meaty, the accras nicely spiced and hot from the fryer. We even got freshly-made fruit juices and a flambeed banana dessert included - keep in mind that this is all on the side of the road, at the trail head for Pointes aux Châteaux, and right next to the beach! Also, it did rain, lots, so we lucked out, eating our lunch under the shelter of the covered dining area!

Next, to work off all of that delicious food, Mario and I took a walk down the long beach, picked a good spot and went for a swim in the ocean. Yes, I got Mario in the water, but it was warm, and he didn't stay THAT long. I did. I love swimming in the ocean, the taste of the salt water, bobbing over the waves, feeling the sand under my feet. Afterwards, we lay on the sand for a little, drying off in the sun, then it was back in the car to head home for a shower and ti-punch, and a bit of relaxing.

This evening, we headed back into Saint-François to enjoy the nightlife and relative openess of a town after sunset. This morning, while buying tickets for the ferry to La Désirade, a young man approached us with a restaurant flyer, pointing the way, and insisting it was good because it was his mother in the kitchen. How can you refuse an offer like that?! We headed for Les Pieds dans l'Eau, which really did have its feet in the water, and though we didn't have a reservation, they welcomed us in and offered us the meals they could prepare. Here, you reserve at a restaurant to book your meal, not your table, since they don't keep everything on hand just in case - that would be wasteful. We started with a REAL ti-punch, lime and cane sugar, muddled in a small glass, then topped with as much rum as you like, they leave the bottle on the table. With a plate of accras and a simple green salad, we enjoy grilled red snapper, which we most likely saw at the market fresh this morning, and chicken colombo, with a heavy turmeric-curry sauce, and white rice. Both dishes were excellent, and radiated with that touch of home-cooked-meal.

We finished the evening with a walk around the marina in the cool sea air, which was very 

helpful in clearing our heads after that yummy ti-punch. Potent stuff!