Goodness me, how many thing can we possibly pack into one day? A lot, apparently, as I don't think we could've possibly done more running around on our way to Port-Louis! We packed up, cleaned up and closed up our heavenly little bungalow on the shore of the rivière des Sources. We said our heartfelt goodbyes to Helena and her other guest, Aniesse, both of whom we had had wonderful and passionate conversations with over dinner last night. We piled everything into the car and waved goodbye to the pig in the mud, the cows in the field, the goat forever stuck on his rock, and away we went.
We made a stop at the Distillery Bielle again this morning, not for more tasting, but to stock up on supplies, as we had not yet filled our duty-free quota. We calculated and recalculated our allowances, picked out our bottle of the best rum on the island, and even bought more of the tasty pastries made by the women on the side of the road - something to snack on later in the day. We took one last wander about the area, and away we went.

We filled up the gas on our funny little Fiat Panda, both more powerful and less elegant than the Picanto had been, and parked next to the Port. We walked a few laps about Grand-Bourg, picking up a baguette for sandwiches, purchasing a flowery cover-up from the market, and dropping another postcard in the mailbox, but basically just trying to waste time. We met up with the Magaloc renter to return the car. We pulled on our packs, slung bags over our shoulders, and made our way to the ferry crossing back to Guadeloupe. We handed over our tickets, climbed to the top deck, and watched as the quiet island of Marie-Galante disappeared behind the boat - and away we went.

Back on the main island, we picked up what looked like our Picanto from Basse-Terre - all looks but no power - and high-tailed it our of busy, bustling Pointe-à-Pitre. We hit the highway and missed our exit, heading further out of town that we had wanted, but with my navigating and Mario's skilled driving, we found another way and made it to the right road to get us to Port-Louis. We drove along roads through rolling hills and sugar cane and windmills, much like Marie-Galante, and not, at the same time. We cruised in and out of small towns, adjusting course to follow the highway, and finally making it to Port-Louis, and the Résidence Madelia, and its curious arrangement of rooms and cottages, and even more curious residents! Whatever had we gotten ourselves into, renting in a place like this! So while several incoherent, crazy ladies continued to fuss over our room, Mario and I dropped our bags and decided to go for our walk through the town, and away we went.

Again finding ourselves out and about when everyone else is in for the afternoon, we walked the length of Port-Louis, past city hall and the main church, past houses closed up against the midday heat, shops closed for siesta, and us, crazy people out in the sun. Further along, we found the boardwalk leading to la plage du Souffleur, a big attraction in this area. Turns out we are not the only crazy people out in the sun, as the beach is covered with tanning tourists. We stop for a sorbet coco to cool off a bit, marveling that this is where everyone is during siesta time. We reach the end of the board walk, turn back towards to town, and decide it should be time to return to the room - and away
we went.

Finally settled and showered and relaxing for the night, we are invited to dinner by the family running the curious apartment complex. We are delighted with freshly-made accras, chicken brochettes with banana, and crostini topped with ham and a tomato-peanut sauce, and copious amounts of ti-punch and planter's punch and straight rum. We were regaled with stories and tales and jokes, and had discussions of all manners, but the day had been long, and hot and sunny, and sleep was creeping in. In the end, we excused ourselves from the good company and good conversation, and away we went.
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