We checked the weather, we checked the seismic activity, we looked out the window - everything indicated that today would be THE DAY to hike up La Soufriere volcano. In 4 visits, and 3 climbs we had never had the chance to see the top of the volcano in the sun. And that is completely normal - there are only 8 days a year when the mountain is not sporting a crown of clouds, often accompanied by wind and rain. In the past couple of days of travel out and about this side of the island, we have taken notice that the summit has been remarkably clear. So today, we took a chance, packed bags and lunches and boots. We got up *really* early and drove out to Saint-Claude, and up all the twisty-turny roads. We weren't the only ones - half the island seemed to have the same idea, and we found ourselves faced with an overfull parking lot and an extra 400m hike up the road to get to the trail head. But we were here, and the summit looked clear.
When Mario and I completed our hike to Chutes du Carbet 2 days ago, we both agreed that, in hindsight, La Soufriere was easier. The first part, the Pas du Roy or "King's Steps", is not steep and takes place on large stone pathways. The climb up the volcano circles the cone as it climbs, so it is long, but not hard, until the final ascent. But I felt tired. Likely from the strenuous hike, but also from less restful sleep on a hard mattress, an early start, forgetting to drink my coffee before we rushed out the door...Regardless, just hiking up the road to the START of the hike winded me. Each section of the Pas du Roy was like a punch in the gut. I would climb three stairs, and have to stop for a break. I was upset at myself - I knew I was better than this, so why was my body protesting so much?! About 3/4 of the way to the defunct parking at Savane à Mulets, I started questioning whether my hike would be over before it truly began. I sincerely thought of nothing else but reaching the plateau just below the real volcano hike started, and turning around to go back to the car.
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As I exited the rainforest, sun touching my face, I caught sight of the majesty of the volcano with not a cloud nearby, wisp of smoke trailing down one side. I stretched my legs out as I hit the flat pavement of the condemned parking lot. I took a deep breath, and then another, and felt myself catch that second wind. I won't say it was easy after that moment. The hike was still challenging, with lots of scrambling over rocks, navigating around other hikers on a particularly narrow trail, and the adding challenge of the heat and sun today. There was a lot of careful foot placement, of 4-limbed climbing up some sections near the top. But when we got there, oh, what a sweet reward to be able to see the summit in such light, to see the smoking fumaroles of the active crater, to look around us and see out to the ocean, for kilometres in all directions. We sat in the grass on the summit, took off our boots and ate our sandwiches, expressions of sheer happiness on our faces. (Well, until a young woman walked by, not looking, and nearly kicked my boot down the side of the volcano. THAT would have made for a challenging descent!)
Of course, what goes up must come down, and so back down we went, passing many more groups of people starting their own climbs. Around 10:30, there was a lot more trail traffic, and so the going was slow, but manageable, because from this point on, it was all downhill. Plus, there was the sweet, sweet lure of the Bains Jaunes at the end of the hike that made everything else seem insignificant. The Bains Jaunes, or "Yellow Baths" are hot springs located at the trailhead, fed by water heated by the volcano. They are slightly sulfuric, explaining the "yellow" moniker, but also incredibly soothing for aching, sore muscles, particularly after an 8km round trip up and down a volcano. They are the best reason to complete the Soufriere hike, because then you've earned your dip in the healing waters. I laugh at all the people who merely dunk their feet in. You can't appreciate the healing properties of the hot spring unless you submerge completely.
Relaxed and content, we head to Grande Anse beach and spend the rest of the day jumping the waves, snoozing on the beach and slurping delicious sorbet coco from the vendor in the parking lot. Then it's back to the Airbnb for an amazing shower(I believe that the more layers of gunk you have to wash off, the more refreshing the shower), a walk about town, and a dinner of our favorite chicken boucané in Guadeloupe. And all through it, I am tired but smiling, because today I got to see the best view of Guadeloupe, and one that only few people are lucky enough to see.
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