Turns out, Mario and I are more worn out that we thought, and so today was all about doing nothing. For obvious reasons, we did no planning prior to this trip, with the exception of booking lodging and transportation. More importantly, we chose locations we had already visited, so there was very little need to "find" everything and get ourselves situated. Granted, we have never been to Sainte-Rose before, but our Airbnb hosts are incredibly helpful, making suggestions and giving directions on all manners of things, so we don't have to go looking ourselves. They point us in the right directions for the nearest grocery store, and so after a lazy breakfast, we stock up on supplies for the days ahead.
Just after noon(yup, it's a lazy day!), we take a drive to one of our favorite beaches in the north of Basse-Terre, la plage de la Perle. You might know it from a little TV show called "Death in Paradise", as the location of the run-down shack that plays home to a whole string of detectives. Or maybe just 3 - I couldn't say, I haven't watched in a while! Regardless, it's a beautiful beach, with vast expanses of soft, flat sand on which to lay, crystal clear blue waters in which to play, and magnificent views of the island to admire while floating in the waves.
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Next to the beach, we stopped at a small metal shack, where inside, an elderly man cooks manioc flour cakes, called Kassavs. These flat galettes hide tasting filling like spicy ham and cheese, or grated toasted coconut, and they are a very local specialty, and especially good when eaten on the neighbouring beach with your toes in the sand!
The weather was a bit iffy, so once the big grey clouds started looming a little to close, and we could see rain coming down over the "Perle" island in the not-too-far distance, we figured it was time to pack up and head back to the house for an afternoon break. And break we did, both falling asleep in the warmth of the afternoon, rain having past, air heavy with residual humidity.
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At this point we decided that maybe this was just what we needed: a break. No obligations, no appointments, nowhere to be. We wandered the neighborhood around the house in the evening, hoping for a sunset that remained hidden behind rain clouds. We cracked open our bottle of rum and tasted our first sip of rum agricole and guava juice this trip. We feasted on what would have been our Christmas dinner, had our hosts not been so thoughtful and generous, but fried pasta with garlic and sardines is also delicious, and reminds us of another meagre holiday meal once upon a time. And we capped of the evening with more Christmas cookies from home, a visit from a giant frog, and a little light reading of many tour guides.
Tomorrow, we have plans. They might not be big, or spectacular, but they are plans.
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