I'm on a boat, y'all.

That's right, I am typing this from the large, cushy bed of my deluxe cabin(completely with private balcony!), while I watch the silhouettes of the limestone karsts of Bai Tu Long bay float past my large panorama windows. So we are treating ourselves to a little luxury time around, no big deal. I am loving the relaxed nature this trip has taken, but the day certainly didn't start out that way!

After this morning's deliciously simple breakfast at Tomodachi House, a deeply-aromatic chicken Pho set meal, we found ourselves stressing out about our pick-up for the cruise. We sat in the lobby from 7:45 onwards, waiting as patiently as possible for any sign that we had not been forgotten. After 35 minutes, we tried calling and messaging the company, inquiring as to the state of our trip...when a seemingly stressed out tour guide came speeding down the street to collect us. We were all picked up a little later than predicted, and you could see it in his face, if not in his polite greeting and ushering us onto the bus.


A 4-hour bus ride, a stop at a massive gift emporium to try and get us to purchase "locally-made" goods for inflated prices, and we found ourselves in Halong City. Here, we joined a multitude of other groups being ushered onto small wooden boats, which brought us to even bigger boats, one of which we would be calling home for the next two nights. It was like arriving at summer camp - the excitement of finding our cabin, meeting the people we would be cruising with, learning about all the fun activities we would be taking part in, even though we already know the whole itinerary by heart. Mario and I rush to explore our room - a deluxe suite - with big bed, big shower, private balcony, and strangely, rose petals and blooms all over the bed! Curious...

After a seriously impressive buffet lunch, we continued by small boat to a local floating fishing village, once booming but now all but vacant, due to families wanting their children to go to school on the mainland. Some of our fellow cruise passengers board bamboo boats, steered by locals, others(like us) pair up in kayaks, opting to do some(limited) self-exploration. I discovered that I really LOVE kayaking, and found that the small loop through the karsts, dodging in between groups in bamboo boats, was not nearly long enough. Upon realizing we had completely the circuit, I told the guide we were going for another round! Sadly, he didn't approve.


I loved the freedom kayaking gave us to get up close to the rock formations surrounding us, letting us examine the layers of erosion at their base, the clusters of barnacle remains on their sides, the roots from precariously-perched trees dangling high up above. We glided through the floating village, past large docks where small houses sat, now abandoned by families who have chosen to move to the mainland, or who have been forced to move elsewhere, by the government, if they want to continue fishing. The bays, here in Bai Tu Long and in Halong, are becoming more and more controlled for environmental reasons and protection under their UNESCO status, and it's not only the tourists that are affected.

A quick visit to a pearl farm, for "learning" and (what else?)shopping, and we are whisked back to the big boat for the evening. Up on the top deck, music blasts and lights flash, and the staff is preparing our awesome sunset welcome party, with no sunset in sight. Sadly, the grey skies have persisted for most of the day, keep the weather pleasantly cool, but offering no views of blue skies for our photos, and certainly no colours nor sun for our sunset. Nevermind, the drinks flow easy(easier for some!), a platter of refreshing fruit empties quickly, and everyone mingles and dances while the boat glides along.


Afterwards, a parade of gorgeously-presented dishes pass one by one across our dinner table, the meal being served family-style. A shrimp cocktail flower bouquet graces our table, as we tuck into crab cakes cooked in their own shell. Crispy spring rolls are perched on the top of what looks like a pineapple-sweet potato turkey-bird. Moist, flavorful fish, baked whole and smothered with a savory sauce, is caught under a carrot fishing net. Even the apple slices, crisp ans sweet and the perfect way to round out the meal, are carved into little rabbits, Japanese-style. I can certainly find no fault with the food on this cruise!


Sadly, the squid fishing that Mario was so excited for is a bust, though we do get excited at the fact that we can see the translucent little buggers swimming around just below the surface of the water, skipping over the waves sometimes to get closer to the light, but running circles around our lures. No midnight snack for us, I'm afraid. We'll try again tomorrow. After another lusciously-creamy egg coffee to round out the great meal, we watch many of our fellow cruisers head back up to the top deck for a little more music and dancing, but Mario and I retire early to enjoy the quiet solitude of our cabin with the awesome views. And with such an inviting bed, it isn't long before we both fall asleep.