A day full of small moments

Half a day. That's all we have left in New York City this time around, after breakfast and checking out of the hotel in New Jersey. Half a day - and so much more of the city left to see, so how do you choose? As with much of this short visit, we go with an idea - a possibility - and see where that gets us. And if that possibility leads to other possibilities, well, so be it. I like to think of it as well-researched flying-by-the-seat-of-your-pants. It's good to improvise, but you have to know what all the possibilities are first - and make room for the unknown, too, since you can never know it all.

Today began with the idea of walking the High Line, an old raised railway track-turned green space near Chelsea and the Meatpacking district. So how do we get there? Do we take the subway, to save our feet for later, or do we walk the several blocks south from the Port Authority Bus Terminal, taking in the architecture of the city on the way? We decided it wasn't that far, and opted to go it on foot. This allowed for some examining of new residential towers, encased in a mirror-like skin, that
have gone up since our last visit, and the melding of windows and clouds high overhead.

We found the stairway access to the High Line and climbed on board. Of course, just walking the High Line is a great thing in and of itself, but so many small moments and discoveries come along with it. We admired the gardens lining the pathways, designed for ease of care, but also to resemble the weeds and wild flowers that once covered the defunct railway. Ornamental grasses and echinacea intermingle with hydrangea and shallow-rooted trees - after all, these plants have very little soil to grow in! In a larger section, we happened upon ice cream vendors, and went with the more refreshing option of a cucumber-lime paleta(homemade popsicle). So good on a hot, muggy day like today!

Further along, we came to a curious amphitheatre that descended to a glass-window deck that offered views down the length of 10th avenue. However, as everyone was standing and posing with the backdrop of cars and pavement, we turned around and caught a hazy distant glimpse of the Statue of Liberty cooling off in the Hudson River. We also passed a wonderfully-low-profile water feature, a fountain where half the sidewalk was simply bathed in flowing water for about 50 feet. So easy to just take off your shoes and keep walking, until you reached the end, where you could continue along the path until your feet dried, then re-shoe. I love it so much, I want to see something similar at home. Why can't we have one at home?!

Eventually we reached the end of the line and descended back to the street, where the Chelsea market awaited. A friend had told me to be cautious, as the Chelsea market was FULL of delicious temptations. So much so that when he visited, he left with a bag FULL of goodies. Well, we didn't do any better, scoring lots of tasty treats - foccacia, refreshing gazpacho, a selection of cheeses, fresh cherries and some mixed nuts - for a picnic lunch, which we proceeded to lay out on one of the giant stairs in the amphitheatre a few blocks back.


At this point, we opted to begin the long walk back, since we had a bus to catch, and an even longer drive to Montreal. This time, the subway won over, but not before we made our way a few block parallel to the parade route for the Pride March. This proximity, though not right in the parade, did allow for some glimpses of party-goers - because that's what they are - in all manners of clothing and costume, with colourful wigs and even more colourful make-up, draped from head to toe in rainbow flags. Dance-club music blasted from everywhere and nowhere in particular, while people danced and shouted on floats parked in the staging area, ready for the real deal to begin. Sadly, we couldn't stay long, though our inability to find an access point to the route certainly didn't help. Oh, and in case you are wondering, synchronicity was in our favour, because one of the moments we DID CATCH was of those pastel-painted silk flags from Central Park, spinning and twirling and flying above the
crowd. And they looked mighty impressive.

So it really was a half-a-day of possibilities branching out into other discoveries and experiences, and of course the wonderful memories on which we will, one day, reminisce. Because that's why we do it, no? For the beautiful reminiscing, and the chance to recount, "You know, once, when I was in New York City..."

Until next time -

Central Park Culture

So we walked just under 20 km through the streets of New York yesterday - I plotted it out on the map. Twenty kilometres. No wonder my feet are tired today! Mario mentioned that we push ourselves so hard on vacation, trying to see everything we possibly can in a day, that we need a rest from our vacation! But not today, since there is still so much to see and do. We do take a a little more time at breakfast, Mario watching the day's game between Belgium and Tunisia while I get some writing done, lingering over the half-decent hotel coffee and resting our aching feet.

The morning finds us exploring old haunts, riding the subway uptown, and walking through the east side of Central Park. We had no real goal for the day, except to enjoy sides of places we didn't get to explore last time. The East side of the city's green lung hides treasures like the tranquil Conservatory Water, where children sail model boats, and climb all over the statue of Alice in Wonderland. We sweep along forest trails, while groups of birders search for rare species in the canopy above. I try not to sneeze.

We exit stage left, into the city, to the Papaya King, and a date with a memory of a great chef. Anthony Bourdain once spoke very highly of the importance of a deliciously snappy hotdog here. We snagged a rare spot at the counter, share curly fries and the famous papaya drinks, and ate our hotdogs with a great traveler, gone much too soon. Thanks for the fantastic suggestion, Tony, the hotdogs were indeed deliciously snappy.

The afternoon finds us in museum appreciation mode. The sky seems to threaten rain all day, so the best option is to get indoors. First, we stop in the lobby of the Guggenheim museum, for a little architecture appreciation. Frank Lloyd Wright designed such a masterpiece, a circular wonder, stucco that looks like moulded plastic, a spiral staircase that surrounds us down below, and displays art in the most open and unusual way. We don't stay, though, preferring the selection on offer across the street, at the Metropolitain Musuem of Art. Plus, how can you pass up climbing those iconic stairs?!

Mario and I realize that we might be getting too pretentious. As a result of our many travels, we have seen much of the art of the world in situ - where it originally came from. Entering a great museum of the world, we look upon the art on display, and realize that we have been to these places, and seen this stuff before! But then we come upon the wing of American Art, or Polynesian Art, and realize that we really HAVEN'T been everywhere. We are in awe of the juxtaposition of Catholicism-inspired dresses selected by Anna Wintour, and the hall of medieval art, complete with giant wrought-iron choir screen as a backdrop. We marvel at the hand-painted inside of a tree-bark roof from a polynesian long hall, and the carved wooden gong with cartoon-like heads on top. We are puzzled when entering the Impressionism rooms, where all the paintings have been removed for a new exhibit, but still people sit on the benches and stare at the blank walls. Mario does the same.

Like the Louvre in Paris, you could spend a lifetime in this museum and never have enough time to fully appreciate the art, so we take heart that we have enjoyed enough for one day, and move along.

The evening finds us heading to Rumfeld Playfield, and the site of the Summerstage concert series, where tonight, the great Fado singer Mariza is performing FOR FREE! We head towards the venue, first stopping for some sandwiches at Au Pain Quotidien, and coffee in the grass while watching a flag-tossing group getting in a last rehearsal before the Pride March tomorrow. Rainbow flags fly everywhere, and it is all very beautiful. At Summerstage, after the obligatory security checks and 18+ wristband for alcohol consumption, we enter the cutest little venue, astroturf lawn surrounded by bleachers, and everything lined with quality concession stands. We enjoyed a Barefoot Pinot Grigio, Portuguese egg custard tartelettes and the first 2 acts very much. But the star of the show, powerhouse vocalist Mariza, did not disappoint. Her range is intense. Her power is immense. Her voice is rich and melodious, and she performed her new album, her greatest hits, and an extra set for her adoring Portuguese fans. She was magical and perfect, and we were front row centre. You can even see us in the videos that Summerstage posted online. What a wonderful end to a day of what I can only describe as intense moments.

Until tomorrow -

Bridges and Broadway

It seems fitting that, in a country that seems to be becoming more narrow-minded, its most diverse city should present us with so many opportunities to embrace and celebrate acceptance, in all forms. It all began very abruptly, with us being thrust into the middle of a throng of commuters at the Port Authority Bus Terminal, eyes fixed to giant screens overhead, taking in all the action of the latest game of the Fifa World Cup. Powerhouse Brazil, with all their moves and fancy footwork, was being halted by Costa Rica, and in the 74th minute of play, the score was 0-0. The people watching, however, were not taking sides, shouting equally for both sides' yellow cards and penalties. It's wonderful how watching a little of the "beautiful game" can transform anyone into a citizen of the world. Oh, and when Brazil DID manage to score, not once but TWICE in the last 10 minutes of gameplay, the entire crowd erupted in cheers of joy.

We continued with a stroll through the streets of Chinatown, by way of a walking tour I had picked up off the Internet. We weaved our way through lush green parks and narrow laneways, bright with colourful billboards of the shops below. We learned much of the dark pasts of these building and streets, brothels and opium dens, now transformed into a neighborhood fit for families to raise their children. We see this in the games of Mahjong between old men in the park, and the playground of daycares full of laughter.

We also snacked our way through Chinatown. Morning lead us into a bakery for sweet melon pan buns, and cold jasmine green tea. We followed the line of people into Fried Dumplings, the cheapest and most tasty snack you can find, but scoffed at the preserved olives and candied baby clams in Aji Ichiban candy store. We pre-emptively bought cheap umbrellas, as it seemed likely that our sunshine-y weekend was now offering rain, and picked out good fortunes at the Mahatyana Buddhist Temple. Hopefully our luck would change.

Here, we opted to cross into Brooklyn by way of the Manhattan Bridge, intent on returning into town by way of the Brooklyn Bridge. Turns out, though less crowded and preferred by tourists, the Manhattan Bridge is migraine-inducing, with a constant stream of clickety-clackety subway trains going by every 7 minutes or so. Guess it makes sense now. Regardless, we made it to Brooklyn, and checked another borrough off our list. We took a tour to the local TKTS counter, snagging much-sought after tickets to the evening's performance of Kinky Boots(Mario's suggestion) then headed to the waterfront for a Shake Shack picnic on the pier, with awesome views of the Hudson River and NY Skyline. And the burgers were just as delicious as last time, thank goodness. Wandering through the park, we examined a photography exhibit called "the Fence", and tapped into our inner child, taking a ride on Jane's Carousel, surrounded by children and brides alike.

Crossing back into the city on the Brooklyn Bridge was another experience all together, best described as an exercise in patience. Everyone is here, crowded the lanes, blocking the roadway to take pictures, darting out in front of bicycles who ding their bells, and shout at the people. Groups cluster together, never yielding to oncoming traffic. The bridge itself is really the start of the show, and no wonder so many want to gaze upon it. Gorgeous brown brick pillars, miles and miles of cable criss-crossing over head, supporting the suspended decking. Beautiful in its simplicity.

What followed was a very long walk to Times Square, but it allowed us the time to enjoy the city, and its preparations for the imminent Pride March on Sunday. Shop windows filled with nothing but colourful displays and rainbow flags, messages of support and encouragement. It continued through Little Italy, strengthened in Greenwich Village and the Garment District petered out ever so slightly when we transitioned into the downtown area. We paused in Union Square, where the people-watching was particularly good, watching couples reuniting after the work day, friends gathering for the upcoming Friday night's events.

Finally, we made it to Broadway, and all its twinkling lights and flashy billboards, to the Al Hirschfeld theatre, for the evening's performance of Kinky Boots. Like a bow atop a perfectly wrapped present, Kinky Boots was the ultimate way to top off a day of diversity and acceptance, telling a similar story of different people coming together to save the day, and having a fabulous drag fashion show at the same time. Plus all those 2-foot-tall red heels boots! Amazing! We laughed, we yelled, we stood and clapped - it was a very exciting, joyful, and yet deep and thoughtful show. It was perfect.


In a final New York moment, we stopped for 2 giant slices of super-flat, foldable pizza to take-away, enjoying a midnight snack back in our hotel room before bed. Until tomorrow -

Long weekend roadtrip

So it happens to be the St-Jean-Baptiste long weekend, the time when Quebecois gather together to celebrate beer, bonfires, terrible French music and fireworks. What do Mario and I decide to do in honour of this glorious holiday? Get the heck outta town, that's what! Off we go, on another fun roadtrip to visit our neighbors to the south, the Big Apple, New York New York. Unlike the city that never sleeps, we DO sleep, and so before all the fun and adventure, a little catnap is in order. It is way past midnight, after all.

Until tomorrow -